boo hoo i broke my rod

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote jakepitsville Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 9:17am
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Originally posted by Fishb8 Fishb8 wrote:

Originally posted by jakepitsville jakepitsville wrote:


find an old triton Stoker in 37kg for your swords.  They are bullet proof and can handle the jandle! IMO

That rod builder in Rotorua also said the same thing. I have a 15-24 rod that can handle 37 kg!!


I have two. the 15kg rod is a very fine Stick - and can handle up to 24kg drags and has done well as a trolling rod . The 37kg rod on the other hand is a broom - the tip has a little give before its just brute power - more then I can hang on to safely.,... only cost 100bucks to silcarb guides Fuji everything if I remember correctly!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Ritcho Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 10:05am
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I have a 15kg and 24kg Stoker, great rods, nice Fuji SIC guides, 15kg would handle 24 but my 24kg broke on what was a relatively light load. Just wondering if the age made it a little brittle?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote waynorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 6:22pm
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Some good points widerange - a couple of comments:

Originally posted by widerange widerange wrote:

The line class ratings on rods mean nothing really.

That's the problem - 15-24kg should mean soft enough to be fished with 5kg of drag, but strong enough to handle 8kg. Often it is accurate, but at the very least you should be able to rely on the upper rating.

Saw something recently(on here?)about this ,it seems in some countries,or maybe some manufacturers actually have a standard scale that indicates the action of the blank and power it has.

If they got the line class rating correct this wouldn't be necessary - they are basically the same thing. It's like rating a rod as being PE5, or rating it for a 250gm jig - it just complicates things and confuses people imho.

Without this or actually using a rod in battle you are left with noting others experiences.and opinions


Or testing it in the shop before you buy

treat fish like fish
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Catchelot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 6:50pm
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Small comment, but when I built a few rods in the early 90's it was a basic rule of thumb that a good rod at its fully loaded power curve measured off the scales would be about a third of the intended line weight and these were all fibreglass. Some with longer and finer tapers may have gone from eg 8-15kg, where as the shorter stockyer rods like standups would have been 10-15kg or straight 15kg. Graphite and carbon was a luxury back then and then there weren't that many of those blanks in the shops. It was great when Kilwell offered the Jelly Tip which was pink glass with black graphite half to three quarters up the spindle they were fanstastic, and I think we had Butterworth and Loomis from Aus and also a few inported Sabre from the USA which was graphite/carbon and these were the bee knees.

Penn then went to Malaysia and Shimano and started mass producing also about that time...
"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mangre 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 6:57pm
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Go FISH, built some calstars back in the day, he would know a bit
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote waynorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 7:36pm
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Originally posted by Catchelot Catchelot wrote:

...when I built a few rods in the early 90's it was a basic rule of thumb that a good rod at its fully loaded power curve measured off the scales would be about a third of the intended line weight and these were all fibreglass.


Good point Catchelot - that's always been my rule of thumb too, but with the different materials available nowadays, and rods made from a mixture of materials, it appears this rule of thumb no longer applies, or at least not to all rods.

There's braid that can often be pushed way past it's rating, and 'rail rods', and reels that can exert 30+kgs of drag ffs. Imagine a rod rated for 90kg line !
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Marligator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 9:53pm
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Things have changed a bit in recent years, there is a school of thought that you should be fishing close to 50% of the line class once you have got the fish settled. Using this philosophy if fishing 15 kg line the rod should really be a conventional 24 and if fishing 24 then a 37 kg rod and if fishing 37 kg have a rod that can fish 18 kg or more of drag if you can handle that amount of weight.
Personally I do not fish 50% of line weight drag, however all my rods for each line weight are capable of doing this if necessary.
Also like most things in fishing you get what you pay for, Buy as good a quality as you can afford, or consider buying a guality second hand item rather than a poorer quality new one for the same price
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Catchelot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 10:09pm
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Good point there Vance cos myself I prefer to fish a heavier rod than line class ratings, eg 24kg rod on 15kg line and 37kg rated rod for 24kg line, but that is just me and my preference to more grunt with rod lifting power versus softee type finesse.
"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Fishb8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 10:34pm
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Some of the guys I fish with rarely push the drag past strike and to be honest, apart from an extra 10-20 minutes fight time, they still land their fish. 
How often do you need to go full drag......never been broadbill fishing so.....?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote widerange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 10:56pm
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 So I guess we are talking about blanks now.what constitutes "good quality"?
Brand? Construction?...







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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Team Kahnage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 11:07pm
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mangre. are you from auckland? i.ve heard of go fish. might have a chat to him... hes just down the road from me. apparrently he has 16/0 hooks. our 12/0 did the business on our maiden shot but everyone seems to like big is good
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Team Kahnage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2014 at 11:24pm
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i recon we should all just meet up sometime over a few beers and have a yarn about who broke whos stick on whos sword etc. this reading business is doing my head in. any jaffas keen to kick it off at mine this weekend. i live in glenfield.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Marligator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2014 at 10:01am
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Roy, I am with you we hardly ever go above strike, but the grunt is there if we need it, I am not into getting the fish to the boat as quick as possible, we are often fishing only two onboard from a 6m boat so do not want a really lively fish at the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mangre 2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2014 at 11:06am
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I new him when he had drum tackle in Whakatane, years ago.

I think he still custom makes rods, the last time I was in contact.

Not sure if it is for the NZ market.

He would be good to chat to.

Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bigfishbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2014 at 6:14pm
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Calstar all the way, I've used them since I learnt how to build rods working for Greg at Drum Tackle back in 1990. Have built almost a hundred of them since then and give my ones a thrashing. Started with E-Glass and everything I have now bar one is graphfighter. When I fished in the States I've been in tangles with other anglers where 5 rods had their tips wrapped around each other. All fish were landed and not a rod was broken.

You should be able to fish a good blank as hard as you want, the only time a rod should break is when it is point loaded. It should NEVER break under heavy load no matter how long the fight has gone on. Doesn't matter what the brand is, if it breaks without high-sticking it was a bad blank.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote the angler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2014 at 6:38am
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U get what you pay for . If a rod is 250$ in h&f it has probably gone through 3 sets of hands and had its ticket clipped every step of the way .
I would imagine it was manufactured for less than 50 $ in a third world country then subsequent distributors and retailers have applied there markups and a few flashy stickers and now it's a expensive " quality " piece of kit .
On a positive note every dodgy rod I have broken that was purchased at said store from u know which brand distributed by u know who and endorsed by everyone's fav t.v fisho has been replaced so far no problems .
If u go out the back of your local warehouse fishing store u will find a pile of broken sticks from both the main brands , you have to be realistic they aren't custom hand made individually tested pieces of fishing art made to last a lifetime and then handed on to your children .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote camdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2014 at 3:14pm
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If you want a proven nz hand made rod that are built specifically for targeting swords during the day, give me a pm. Thomas Hatfull builds them on blanks from kilwell but these are not rods or blanks that you will find in any nz shop. Six swords so far for this model and these blanks can handle 23kg of drag plus. He also charges a fair price.Kilwell have been using a pic of the rod for their xantu ads in the nzsfc yearbook and some of the nz fishing world mags.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote A LOAF OF BREAD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2014 at 3:55pm
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I broke a rod couple months ago. Now i make sure my rods are completely inside the vehicle before i slam the boot shut. 
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Originally posted by camdog camdog wrote:

If you want a proven nz hand made rod that are built specifically for targeting swords during the day, give me a pm. Thomas Hatfull builds them on blanks from kilwell but these are not rods or blanks that you will find in any nz shop. Six swords so far for this model and these blanks can handle 23kg of drag plus. He also charges a fair price.Kilwell have been using a pic of the rod for their xantu ads in the nzsfc yearbook and some of the nz fishing world mags.

2nd that, have seen this mans handy work and he makes a very nice rod.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote sezhawkes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2014 at 5:28pm
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Hi have a old shimano stoker game rod 37kg , NZ made .its for sale too
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