Autopilots — effective and affordable help on small boats

A typical response from boat users who have an autopilot on board is that they never really appreciated how useful it would be, and how much more enjoyable their boating became once the magic hand was fitted to their wheel. An autopilot provides the freedom to do what you really go out there for. Sure, driving is fun, but those long hauls in calm weather do get boring, and being clamped to the wheel while trolling the eleventh hour can make you feel a little handicapped.

Joining in the action while out gamefishing was the biggest enjoyment the autopilot offered me personally. There is nothing like being able to bolt for the rod when Mr Beakie pokes his head up behind your lure and then teasing it up or throwing it a bait yourself. It sure beats watching and hoping from the helm, because if you let the helm go in a trailer boat, the path your boat takes will be a short route to an almighty tangle as the boat takes its own course.

The other obvious benefit is the possibility of installing a hand-held remote (available on some units), which allows you to steer from anywhere in the cockpit (I have caught gamefish this way with the remote handy in my pocket). I like to steer from the roof so that I can stooge down the tidelines or investigate the work-ups that can be seen from this vantage point. It can be hard to get me down from up there while I am having fun zooming around at the press of a button.

Manufacturers of autopilots have cottoned onto the demands of small boats that are now travelling long distances to fishing grounds and who fish short handed often – like me – and have produced units that are compact, water-resistant, user-friendly, and best of all, easy to install. Because they are built with small boats in mind rather than being a conversion from some sailboat apparatus, we can take the benefits for a modest outlay. And if you are a little practical, you can install one yourself in a short period of time. For me it was a three-hour job that was no serious test of skill.

Choosing the right pilot

The type of steering system and how much work the pilot would have to do to operate your steering should determine the unit you choose. Your supplier will discuss these requirements, but basically autopilots operate as either hydraulic units that plumb into your existing hydraulic hoses or the electric helm units that replace your existing cable steering box to drive the cable steering. The beauty about the latter unit is that it replaces the tired steering box that you may already have.

These units must include features such as 'point and steer' (which basically maintains a course you've just set on the wheel), and the ability to interface with positioning equipment (which is probably not as important, but very desirable). This allows you to select a waypoint and press a button so the GPS talks to the pilot and the course is set and followed. Nice and simple.

The parts

i) The driving device or motor: for hydraulic it is a pump motor and hydraulic lines plumbed into your existing lines. For electric units it is an electric motor behind the steering wheel.

ii) The flux gate compass to tell the unit where it is currently heading.

iii) A control head that is basically a brain to handle input and output

iv) The control panel for the operator to command the unit will also come with the kit.

Installation tips

First off, determine which unit best suits you. The size of the control unit for your dashboard will have a bearing, as will the other parts like the pump motor and linear feedback, which both need to have a home, so one particular unit may fit your boat better than another. Generally it is better to go for a more powerful unit if you have the choice, as overworking the pilot can lead to damage or a dangerous predicament if it locks up.

Install the compass low in the vessel and close to the centre line as possible. In the 'Sea Genie' we put the compass in the cabin under the stairs away from metal and power cables that could affect the reading. Any bulkhead in this kind of area is an ideal spot.

The control box needs to be handy to a power supply, but out of sight and in a dry place. Labelling the wires for future use is a good idea. The control unit needs to be mounted in a handy position at the helm. Be careful where you put the hole because this is a visible placement that you don't want to regret later.

The motor unit on the electric Navico unit we selected goes where the old steering box was behind the wheel. Make sure you have enough room here as the motor is a lot longer than the existing steering box. The yoke where the steering head exits may be larger than the existing one in its place, so a little work enlarging the hole or making a conversion plate to connect the unit to the steering bulkhead may be required.

If you have chosen the hydraulic version, you will need to mount a pump instead. Make this handy to the hydraulic steering lines in a relatively dry space. Once you have this plumbed in, it is a simple matter to then bleed the system and check for leaks. The hydraulic system also needs a sensor unit that is taped or cable-tied to the steering ram. This tells the unit where the rudder (or outboard, or sterndrive steering ram) position is.

Follow the simple wiring order with the unit and an initialising procedure and you are on your way to hands-free steering. A word of warning, however. Prudent common sense is needed with your boat in autopilot mode. You must keep an active watch at all times to take care of any sudden need for a course correction — such as when moving objects get in your path. Also, if you fall overboard in auto pilot, you are probably going to get a final look at the back end of your boat as it continues on its correct course without you – not much good at all!

The first time you cruise on out and set some gear, you will enjoy the freedom an autopilot offers. A great return for a small investment, I can assure you.